Kota Kinabalu - More than just a mountain

I still haven't climbed Mount Kinabalu. I have been coming to Kota Kinabalu frequently for the best part of 7 years now – you'd think I would have got round to it. As yet, I haven't found the time as there has been so much else to do!

Kota Kinabalu could be described as just a stopover city for those travellers and backpackers on their way to climb the famous Mount Kinabalu, dive the infamous Sipadan, or do some Orang Utan spotting at the world renowned Sepilok. And why not? That's where the trusty guide books tell you to go.

For those of you who think that KK is merely a road to a mountain, allow me to introduce you to some of the less well known environs that most tourists don't reach!

It takes a good 2 hours to drive to the Kinabalu Park at the foot of the mountain and to feel the crisp refreshing chill against your cheeks. Did you know you can feel the same tingle on your skin by driving a mere to 40 – 45 minutes out of town (32.5km from KKIA) to a place called Kiansom, hang a left up Kokol Hill, then follow the windy road up ( a fairly steep up it must be said so radiators should be topped up) and you will pop out of the clouds onto a road that hits the lofty height of 800 metres on my GPS, and be welcomed with a full frontal view of Mount Kinabalu and a temperature to match? Not to mention the view of the entire city of KK, the Marine Park and the Crocker Range to boot.

But what to do  now you are up there in the hills?

The Kasih Sayang Boutique Health Resort & Spa might be one answer.

Built in keeping with the landscape, Kasih Sayang is more of a Nature Resort than a 5* hotel style luxury Spa. Here you can just go and have a cup of tea or a cold drink on their wooden decking with a spectacular view of Kota Kinabalu, the like of which can't be found in many other places so close to the city, especially at sunset (bring a jumper!). Sample some local delights from their restaurant (from RM 6), or if you have more time and want to relax to your fullest, book one of their 16 rooms (from RM 180 per night) so that you can get up early and watch the most glorious sunrise. 

I read that the resort runs a pick up service from the base of the hill every 2 hours starting at 8am. For reservations or any enquiries call 088-246404 or 088-228866. Further details from the Kasih Sayang Website. 
Or, you could  do what I did, and just park up and wander around at your leisure, head off down a random path, camera in hand watching the ever shifting clouds and mist change the scene before you from second to second and just enjoy the tranquillity of a little known hideaway in the sky. Snap happily at the abundant flora whilst inhaling cool, fresh, clean country air. Or perhaps the more artistic amongst you might just like to pitch up a stool and an easel, don a smock, and pick a view to paint from the the 360 degree choice. Whatever your fancy, Kokol Hill is a great alternative to Kinabalu Park if time or money or both are short.

Views of the Crocker Range from Kokol Hill

Up in the clouds with a stunning view of Kota Kinabalu

Another sun sets over Kota Kinabalu as seen from Kokol Hill

What next? 


Well, on your way back to Kiansom from Kasih Sayang, why not hang a left at the bottom of the hill and pay a visit to the Kiansom Waterfall at the roads end? Mid week is the best time to go here since at the weekend it can get packed out with locals who come in their droves to escape the city heat. There is a very reasonable RM1 entry fee, which I really don't mind paying since the caretakers seem to keep the place fairly litter free – a big job after a weekend of pic-nickers leaving their rubbish behind! If there has been recent rain then the falls should be flowing well giving you ample opportunity to take one of those cotton wool effect photos, or find an eddy to sit in and cool off for a while.

Kinasom Waterfall - One of several tiers

Be warned though... there can be leeches and mosquito's so take repellent but don't be put off. The 5 tiers will reward you for these slight inconveniences. Speaking of inconveniences, the loo's leave a lot to be desired as is the case more often than not in public places Malaysia-wide so best to find a bush if nature calls after listening to all that running water!

Kiansom Waterfall - Why not have a refreshing dip!

Both Kokol Hill and Kiansom Waterfall are pretty much off the bus route (though it wouldn't be impossible if you fancied a bit of a challenge) so I recommend you either befriend a car owner, or hire a car for a few days so you can take in the rest of my lesser known gems in and around KK. Car rental is an easy process from the airport, of from many of the tour operators in KK itself, usually located in the Wisma Sabah building near the new Suria Sabah shopping centre. Here is a link listing some places that offer car rental http://www.travel-library.com/carrental/asia/malaysia/kota_kinabalu/  and you can expect to pay from RM 70 to RM 120 per day for a small (Kancil or Perodua) to medium sized (Proton) car. Expect the fuel tank to be empty and don't expect the car to be especially clean and make sure you point out any dents and things that are broken before you pull away, just to avoid any misunderstandings later! Most companies will deliver the car to your hotel and pick it up again if you ask nicely.


To get to Jalan Kiansom, from KK  head towards Jesselton Point (where the ferries leave for Labuan), and at the big roundabout, turn left onto Jalan Tun Fuad Stephen which will take you along the waterfront. Stay on this road through a small, almost miss-able set of lights, across a roundabout to another roundabout with a beautiful mosque on the right. Follow the roundabout to the mosque and take that road so that the mosque is on your left. Another small roundabout then at the lights left again to another larger set of lights. You want to go straight ahead on Jalan Tuaran and head towards Inanam. In Inanam you will come to yet another roundabout, take the 3rd exit to the right past some shop houses on your left to yet another small roundabout, straight across another roundabout and you are in Jalan Kiansom! Not as tricky as it might sound. Just stay on this road. When you can go no further, you are at the waterfall. Go back a few hundred metres and you'll see the sign for Kasih Sayang resort – that's Kokol Hill.

An illustration of where to find Kokol Hill & Kiansom

I really do hope you get some time to check out these hidden gems which are off the tourist route. Let me know if you go!